A Look Back at THIS DAY/ ARISE Magazine African Fashion Collective 2009

On February 13, 2009, Arise Magazine, the first global style and culture magazine dedicated to African achievement, music, business and politics celebrated it’s launch at The Promenade, Bryant Park. The event featured the designs of an African fashion collective: Xuly Bet of Mali, Stoned Cherrie of South Africa, MOMO and Tiffany Amber of Nigeria and a surprising appearance by the incomparable GRACE JONES. Special congratulations to Style Maven, BETHANN HARDISON who was presented with the first Arise/ThisDay Icon of Style Award by Mr. Nduka Obaigbena, Chairman of THISDAY Newspapers. Everybody loves Bethann Hardison, our favorite tireless fashion activist who’s been hosting Town Hall meetings around the nation to discuss the shameless lack of diversity in the fashion world! Read our 2004 interview with her at www.simoneswashington.blogspot.com

Grace Jones 2.2009

Jimmy Choo @ H&M?!

“JUST when you thought H&M couldn't possibility find a designer to top the Matthew Williamson collaboration, the brand announces its latest partner in design: Jimmy Choo.

"We are privileged to be among the fashion greats who have been affiliated with H&M so far, and to be designing a collection appealing to fashion savvy, street smart women, and to be including some great pieces for men, too," founder and president of Jimmy Choo, Tamara Mellon said today. "Jimmy Choo will bring to H&M a sophisticated, fashion forward, accessible and glamorous collection - the perfect party pieces to buy now and then wear out that night!"

Not content with creating covetable accessories, Jimmy Choo will also design a range of clothing for the high street giant, which, in a change to most collections, will be created to complement the accessories rather than the other way around.

"We adore Jimmy Choo's shoes and bags. They are glamorous and sexy, and they add instant style to the simplest of outfits," Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisor of H&M said. "I like the way we have worked with clothes to accessorize the shoes and bags rather than the other way around. This collaboration is particularly exciting because it's our first shoe designer collection. It's a joy to be able to offer top end designer shoes and bags of excellent quality to our customers. The collection, which will comprise shoes, bags and accessories for men and women, will arrive in selected H&M stores on November 14.” (Vogue.com 6/17)

Trendy Fashion For All!

“This month, Arcadia plans to unveil a collection that Beth Ditto (of the punk band Gossip) designed for Evans, the company’s plus-size division. Available in the United States on the Web, it highlights cutting-edge looks like a corset dress and a cropped biker jacket.

The collection is the latest in an outpouring of fashions aimed at trend-driven, round-figured teenagers and young women, a population that has long echoed Ms. Ditto’s complaint that it is ignored by most merchants and brands.

“Up to now it’s been difficult to provide adequate fashion content to a large-sized customer,” said Jeff Van Sinderen, a retail analyst at B. Riley, a research and investment firm. The woman of size, as she is euphemistically known, “still wants to wear the same clothes as her slimmer counterparts,” he added.

Other stores and designers have picked up the message. Forever 21, a purveyor of cheap chic, introduced its plus-size line, Faith 21, this spring. Target recently began offering Pure Energy, exuberantly patterned dresses and tops for young women. Those follow hip niche labels like Karen Kane and Kiyonna, which are sold at boutiques.

All the lines see potential profit in offering stylish alternatives to the ubiquitous track suit. From a business perspective, that makes sense: the customer base is increasing, as health authorities have long pointed out. Some 17 percent of teenagers are overweight, according to the surgeon general’s office, more than three times the rate of a generation ago.

The market for youth-oriented plus sizes (usually 14 to 24) showed strong growth a couple of years ago, several years after the fast-fashion chain H&M entered the business. (H&M has since dropped its plus-size line, for reasons it would not disclose.)

Last year, sales of plus sizes to girls and young women ages 13 to 34 reached $5.8 billion, according to the NPD Group, a market research firm.

With consumer spending falling everywhere, that momentum has been lost: Sales declined 15.3 percent for plus-size shoppers 13 to 17 and 10.1 percent for those 18 to 34 in April and May, compared with the period a year ago, NPD says.

Plus-size lines aimed at older women have also suffered; chains including Ann Taylor and Old Navy have removed larger sizes from stores (they still sell them online).

Despite the slump, some see the market inevitably returning to strength. “The fact that more businesses are getting into this market is a clear indication that the recent lack of growth has been more about the economy than about a lack of interest,” said Marshal Cohen, an NPD analyst.” (New York Times 6/18)

6.15.09 First Lady Michelle Obama Accepts CDFA Fashion Award

“The fashion industry made it clear at its annual awards ceremony Monday night that it's looking to future stars to see it past the doldrums of the recession, shunning longtime favorites and honoring a largely new guard: Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang — and Michelle Obama.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America's special tribute award went to the first lady, considered a new player in this world.

Noting her "meteoric rise as a fashion icon," CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg said Obama had "a unique look that balances the duality of her lives" in her roles as trusted adviser to her husband, President Barack Obama, and busy mother to their two daughters.
Obama accepted her award via a pre-taped video speech. Wearing a crisp white button-down shirt and two strands of pearls, she honored fashion as an American "art form" with "ingenuity and craftsmanship that contribute so much to our economy and culture."” (New York Times)

BARBIE: A Retrospective by The Big Money

Capital Catwalk Salon BARBIE SHOW featuring BYRON LARS 6.5.09

Who Wants A Fashion Copyright Law Anyway?

"For many, many years, we've pointed out how the fashion industry is an example of a highly creative industry that has thrived without the use of copyright. The industry itself is massively successful, incredibly innovative, and involves plenty of competition. This should be seen as a good thing. Yet, some big name designers, who were annoyed that they had to keep competing by releasing new designs all the time have been lobbying Congress to pass a new law that would institute a special copyright for fashion design. This makes little sense. The entire purpose of copyright is to encourage innovation. Yet, if the industry is thriving, competitive and innovative, why would you ever want to introduce new copyright?

Yet, as expected, there has been a big push to get the law passed this year. People have been submitting stories on a near weekly basis about how one or another celebrity designer trekked up to Capitol Hill to push starstruck Congress Critters to support the bill.

It's reached the point that many expect the bill to finally pass this year, but suddenly many in the industry are realizing what a disaster this would be. Boing Boing points us to a plea from industry insiders who are realizing how such a law would destroy the industry and force many small businesses and designers to shut down. Yet, when they talked to their Congressional reps, they were told that Congress hadn't heard anyone complain about this yet, so now they're trying to get out the word.”

(Techdirt 6/8)

Sao Paulo State Prosecuters fine designers $125,000 for not using Black Models!

“SAO PAULO – Organizers of Sao Paulo Fashion Week have promised to take steps to try to make sure that at least 10 percent of the models walking the runways will be blacks or Indians. State prosecutors say they struck a deal with the event's organizers calling for proof that they will attempt to convince designers taking part to promote racial inclusion. Noncompliance by organizers could result in a fine of as much as 250,000 reals ($125,000) in a nation where nearly 50 percent of the population is black and there is a large Indian minority.

Prosecutor Deborah Kelly Affonso said the deal announced Thursday with Luminosidade Marketing & Producoes followed a state investigation. It stemmed from complaints the event recently had fewer black models.” Tech Dirt 6/8/09