“This month, Arcadia plans to unveil a collection that Beth Ditto (of the punk band Gossip) designed for Evans, the company’s plus-size division. Available in the United States on the Web, it highlights cutting-edge looks like a corset dress and a cropped biker jacket.
The collection is the latest in an outpouring of fashions aimed at trend-driven, round-figured teenagers and young women, a population that has long echoed Ms. Ditto’s complaint that it is ignored by most merchants and brands.
“Up to now it’s been difficult to provide adequate fashion content to a large-sized customer,” said Jeff Van Sinderen, a retail analyst at B. Riley, a research and investment firm. The woman of size, as she is euphemistically known, “still wants to wear the same clothes as her slimmer counterparts,” he added.
Other stores and designers have picked up the message. Forever 21, a purveyor of cheap chic, introduced its plus-size line, Faith 21, this spring. Target recently began offering Pure Energy, exuberantly patterned dresses and tops for young women. Those follow hip niche labels like Karen Kane and Kiyonna, which are sold at boutiques.
All the lines see potential profit in offering stylish alternatives to the ubiquitous track suit. From a business perspective, that makes sense: the customer base is increasing, as health authorities have long pointed out. Some 17 percent of teenagers are overweight, according to the surgeon general’s office, more than three times the rate of a generation ago.
The market for youth-oriented plus sizes (usually 14 to 24) showed strong growth a couple of years ago, several years after the fast-fashion chain H&M entered the business. (H&M has since dropped its plus-size line, for reasons it would not disclose.)
Last year, sales of plus sizes to girls and young women ages 13 to 34 reached $5.8 billion, according to the NPD Group, a market research firm.
With consumer spending falling everywhere, that momentum has been lost: Sales declined 15.3 percent for plus-size shoppers 13 to 17 and 10.1 percent for those 18 to 34 in April and May, compared with the period a year ago, NPD says.
Plus-size lines aimed at older women have also suffered; chains including Ann Taylor and Old Navy have removed larger sizes from stores (they still sell them online).
Despite the slump, some see the market inevitably returning to strength. “The fact that more businesses are getting into this market is a clear indication that the recent lack of growth has been more about the economy than about a lack of interest,” said Marshal Cohen, an NPD analyst.” (New York Times 6/18)
Friday, June 19, 2009
6.15.09 First Lady Michelle Obama Accepts CDFA Fashion Award
“The fashion industry made it clear at its annual awards ceremony Monday night that it's looking to future stars to see it past the doldrums of the recession, shunning longtime favorites and honoring a largely new guard: Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang — and Michelle Obama.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America's special tribute award went to the first lady, considered a new player in this world.
Noting her "meteoric rise as a fashion icon," CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg said Obama had "a unique look that balances the duality of her lives" in her roles as trusted adviser to her husband, President Barack Obama, and busy mother to their two daughters.
Obama accepted her award via a pre-taped video speech. Wearing a crisp white button-down shirt and two strands of pearls, she honored fashion as an American "art form" with "ingenuity and craftsmanship that contribute so much to our economy and culture."” (New York Times)
The Council of Fashion Designers of America's special tribute award went to the first lady, considered a new player in this world.
Noting her "meteoric rise as a fashion icon," CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg said Obama had "a unique look that balances the duality of her lives" in her roles as trusted adviser to her husband, President Barack Obama, and busy mother to their two daughters.
Obama accepted her award via a pre-taped video speech. Wearing a crisp white button-down shirt and two strands of pearls, she honored fashion as an American "art form" with "ingenuity and craftsmanship that contribute so much to our economy and culture."” (New York Times)
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Who Wants A Fashion Copyright Law Anyway?
"For many, many years, we've pointed out how the fashion industry is an example of a highly creative industry that has thrived without the use of copyright. The industry itself is massively successful, incredibly innovative, and involves plenty of competition. This should be seen as a good thing. Yet, some big name designers, who were annoyed that they had to keep competing by releasing new designs all the time have been lobbying Congress to pass a new law that would institute a special copyright for fashion design. This makes little sense. The entire purpose of copyright is to encourage innovation. Yet, if the industry is thriving, competitive and innovative, why would you ever want to introduce new copyright?
Yet, as expected, there has been a big push to get the law passed this year. People have been submitting stories on a near weekly basis about how one or another celebrity designer trekked up to Capitol Hill to push starstruck Congress Critters to support the bill.
It's reached the point that many expect the bill to finally pass this year, but suddenly many in the industry are realizing what a disaster this would be. Boing Boing points us to a plea from industry insiders who are realizing how such a law would destroy the industry and force many small businesses and designers to shut down. Yet, when they talked to their Congressional reps, they were told that Congress hadn't heard anyone complain about this yet, so now they're trying to get out the word.”
(Techdirt 6/8)
Yet, as expected, there has been a big push to get the law passed this year. People have been submitting stories on a near weekly basis about how one or another celebrity designer trekked up to Capitol Hill to push starstruck Congress Critters to support the bill.
It's reached the point that many expect the bill to finally pass this year, but suddenly many in the industry are realizing what a disaster this would be. Boing Boing points us to a plea from industry insiders who are realizing how such a law would destroy the industry and force many small businesses and designers to shut down. Yet, when they talked to their Congressional reps, they were told that Congress hadn't heard anyone complain about this yet, so now they're trying to get out the word.”
(Techdirt 6/8)
Sao Paulo State Prosecuters fine designers $125,000 for not using Black Models!
“SAO PAULO – Organizers of Sao Paulo Fashion Week have promised to take steps to try to make sure that at least 10 percent of the models walking the runways will be blacks or Indians. State prosecutors say they struck a deal with the event's organizers calling for proof that they will attempt to convince designers taking part to promote racial inclusion. Noncompliance by organizers could result in a fine of as much as 250,000 reals ($125,000) in a nation where nearly 50 percent of the population is black and there is a large Indian minority.
Prosecutor Deborah Kelly Affonso said the deal announced Thursday with Luminosidade Marketing & Producoes followed a state investigation. It stemmed from complaints the event recently had fewer black models.” Tech Dirt 6/8/09
Prosecutor Deborah Kelly Affonso said the deal announced Thursday with Luminosidade Marketing & Producoes followed a state investigation. It stemmed from complaints the event recently had fewer black models.” Tech Dirt 6/8/09
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
ATL Plans Fashion Retail Corridor
Construction is to resume in July on Streets of Buckhead, a $1.5 billion luxury development in Atlanta’s toniest neighborhood. Developer Ben Carter, who halted the project in March, said 20 retailers, including Oscar de la Renta, Van Cleef & Arpels, Brioni and Etro have signed leases. Streets of Buckhead, planned for a seven-block area, is to feature 600,000 square feet of retail space, along with 350 rental apartments. Carter said he’s using the lull in construction to renegotiate building costs, with the savings making up “for the downtime in construction.” From WWD Issue 05/22/2009
African American Women SHOP A LOT, Duh!
Construction is to resume in July on Streets of Buckhead, a $1.5 billion luxury development in Atlanta’s toniest neighborhood. Developer Ben Carter, who halted the project in March, said 20 retailers, including Oscar de la Renta, Van Cleef & Arpels, Brioni and Etro have signed leases. Streets of Buckhead, planned for a seven-block area, is to feature 600,000 square feet of retail space, along with 350 rental apartments. Carter said he’s using the lull in construction to renegotiate building costs, with the savings making up “for the downtime in construction.” From WWD Issue 05/22/2009
African American Women SHOP A LOT, Duh!
Last week, Essence held its annual Smart Beauty panel at the Mandarin Oriental in NYC. Panelists included Sam Fine and Mikki Taylor. The event found that
African-American women spend $7.5 billion annually on beauty products, but shell out 80 percent more money on cosmetics and twice as much on skin care products than the general market, according to the research.
WHY? African-American women sample many more products to find the ones that are most effective on their skin. She'd rather purchase aspirational products like Chanel and Versace over brands rep'd by celebrities. "She spends a lot, but there's little satisfaction. What keeps us buying is the hope that this product will do what it's supposed to do," says Fine
Fashion Gaming with Pat McGrath
“Coming Soon: The Fashion Week Video Game” – “A Fashion Week video game is coming out next year. Created by 505 Games, IMG, and world-renowned makeup artist Pat McGrath, the game will offer players a "true insider's point of view" of Fashion Week. It will include ‘world-class industry gurus,’ models, and celebrities, and will be available for the iPhone and for Nintendo, Microsoft, and Sony consoles. Women ranging in age from pre-teen to mid-thirties are the target audience.” (New York Magazine’s The Cut) Louis Vuitton Learns to Twitter
“Louis Vuitton gets twittering” - “With this new presence on Twitter, we hope to provide not only additional customer service to our clientele, but also a unique look at all aspects of Louis Vuitton”. - according to Daniel Lalonde, president and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton US:
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